This article is the first in a three-part series documenting Alfred Wainwright’s scenic Coast to Coast Walk across northern England. From St. Bee’s Head along the shores of the Irish Sea to the old fishing village of Robin Hood’s Bay facing the North Sea, the Coast to Coast Walk encompasses approximately 190 miles and passes through three national parks. Moving west to east, the recommended course based on prevailing winds, the walker is first introduced to the breathtaking views of the Lake District, descends into the tranquil Yorkshire Dales, and lastly enters the stark surroundings of the North York Moors. Though not always an easy stroll by any means, this walk offers a continuous change in environment and the constant hospitality of rural England. It is highly recommended for anyone willing to commit the time and energy to an exhilarating real-life experience.

Starting out in the Lake District offers the advantage of having prevailing winds at your back for most of the entire Coast to Coast Walk. It offers the disadvantage of breaking you in the hard way. While the Lake District affords what are arguably the most breathtaking views on the entire Island, be prepared to pay . . . with your knees, ankles and anything else that bends. Coverage of the Lakes requires five days (four if you’re a seasoned rambler), and each day includes at least one climb and descent requiring notable effort, particularly if you are burdened with a full pack.

Speaking of packs, there is no better time than the beginning to mention one of the unique services that is offered along the Coast to Coast Walk: the backpack "sherpa van." For a nominal fee (3-5£), the sherpa van will pick up your pack in the morning and have it waiting for you at your destination that evening. Carry your essentials with you in a small daypack and pack the rest for the sherpa van to haul.

There are several companies that offer this service, but our recommendation is The Sherpa Van Project (SVP). SVP will actually deliver your pack to the exact address where you are staying. Others drop off your pack in a common area that is locked, but accessible to anyone else who is using the service. Further, these common areas will not necessarily be close to your B&B or campsite, though most towns along this route are small enough so that nothing can be too far away. If nothing else, treat yourself to the sherpa van service while in the Lake District. You will enjoy the spectacular walks that much more, and you will spend far less time limping up and down the physical therapy aisle at the local chemist (pharmacy) shop.

The Lake District averages somewhere on the order of 80 inches of rainfall per year, so don’t expect to get through it without fogging up your glasses at least once. As always, good raingear is a critical factor in retaining the happy camper badge. It will also serve as good protection against strong winds which you are apt to encounter at the higher altitudes. Just make sure you haven’t sent your raingear off with the sherpa van.

One last helpful hint for anyone with a history of knee problems or other leg ailments. A walking stick, whether an old-fashioned one made of hickory or a retractable, NASA-approved, space alloy model, will improve the quality of your walk, particularly through the steep and rocky lake trails.

The route through the Lake District, beginning at St. Bees and ending in Shap, includes four stopover locations. From west to east they are: Ennerdale Bridge, Rosthwaite, Grasmere, and Patterdale. The approximate distances for each segment follow:

Day 1: St. Bees to Ennerdale Bridge = 14 miles

Day 2: Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite = 14.5 miles

Day 3: Rosthwaite to Grasmere = 7 miles

Day 4: Grasmere to Patterdale = 8 miles (10.5 miles alternative route)

Day 5: Patterdale to Shap = 16 miles.

Some of the literature suggests that the walk from Rosthwaite to Patterdale can be done in one day. Even seasoned ramblers, however, get tears in their eyes when they remember their last attempt. Sure it’s "doable." But you’re not making a Nike ad, so what’s the point? Whatever you do during this memorable walk, do not forget you are on vacation. Enjoy it. And don’t try to keep up with the British. They invented this sport.

If you’re coming from out of the country, your first challenge is getting to St. Bees. We recommend flying into Manchester, catching the train from Manchester Airport to Whitehaven (located about 5 miles north of St. Bees), and taking a 10-minute cab ride from the Whitehaven train station to St. Bees. Depending upon what day of the week you arrive (train schedules vary from day to day), this trek could take 3 to 5 hours, so don’t plan on hiking out of St. Bees the same day. Better to take it easy on the beaches of St. Bees Head, spend the night in town, and get a fresh start the next morning.

Day 1. The first day from St. Bees begins with a 3.5-mile trek along the coast. The rocky cliffs are reminiscent of the Pacific Coast in the American Northwest. Take a little extra time to enjoy the ocean views. It will be awhile before you see that much water again. But don’t worry. After all, it’s what is between the coasts that really makes this walk worthwhile. On this day you will cross the River Ehen twice, and climb to the summit of Dent and descend to Nannycatch Gate and the Kinniside Stone Circle in between crossings. The summit of Dent, though only 1,131 feet above sea level, provides a spectacular view. Remember, you started the day at sea level so it’s a pretty good climb.

Day 2. While the first day of hiking is generally referenced as a day in the Lake District, you don’t actually encounter your first lake until Day 2. Shortly out of Ennerdale Bridge, you emerge quite suddenly on the shoreline of Ennerdale Water. Nearly 2.5 miles long and 0.5 mile wide, this body of shimmering symmetry is just begging for jet skis, beer-drinking armchair admirals and the Miss Budweiser hydroplane boat. But you won’t see any of those here and do you know why? Because the British still consider their water resources to be sacred ground, that’s why. Amen. (Also, the water is a little chilly.)

Beyond the lake there is a choice of trails: the high road to High Stile and Haystacks, or the low road along the River Liza. If you’ve got time, energy and good weather, the high road offers what are arguably the grandest vistas on the trail. The low road is tranquil and considerably easier going, though a steep climb is still required just before the trails meet again. As is usually the case along this route, you really can’t make a bad choice. And once you’re on your way down again, into the comforting quaintness of Rosthwaite, you’ll soon lose any misgivings of missing one trail for the other, in anticipation of a good meal and a bed upon which to collapse into unconsciousness.

Day 3. The walk from Rosthwaite to Grasmere on Day 3 is considerably shorter and, this is important, considerably steeper. The 7-mile sojourn took us 6 hours, which equates to about half the walking speed of the two previous days. This is due to Newton’s 4th law of physics, which states that a pack-laden body in motion will not stay in motion for more than 5 minutes when the incline is equal to or greater than 45 degrees. An auxiliary of this maxim further explains that a tired, pack-laden body will stumble in random motions along the entire ensuing descent, thus completing a path which is many times over the straight line distance.

While the walk to Grasmere is consistently panoramic, it is tiring and the approach into town is a welcome one. The town itself is by far the Lake District’s most "touristy," with dozens of shops, galleries and accommodations, and thousands of visitors each day (at least in the summer) to occupy them. Grasmere was the home of William Wordsworth, England’s most beloved poet, and his burial site is probably the single most visited attraction. But perhaps the most satisfying thing about Grasmere is that you can get an ice cream cone there. True, you’ve only been on the trail three days, but hey . . . you don’t have to answer to anybody over an ice cream cone.

Grasmere is actually your first opportunity to spend money on something other than a meal and a bed. So it is appropriate to mention something here about your traveling currency. While traveler’s checks are accepted in most places, they are not accepted everywhere. Even though you are on vacation, and everyone else should know that and cater to you accordingly, remember that you are in a rural area. Many B&Bs accept only cash, or personal checks from British residents. The same goes for many of the shops and smaller restaurants along the way. We recommend calculating your expenses for the entire trip before you leave your house, and deciding how much you want to bring up front - with half in cash and half in traveler’s checks. And if you’ve got a credit card, bring it along and use it when you can. You’ll get a more favorable exchange rate on your card purchases compared to buying cash or traveler’s checks.

Day 4. Hopefully you’ve rested well in Grasmere, because the walk to Patterdale is also fairly grueling. But again, you’re in the heart of the Lake District and the views are spectacular in every direction. If you’ve rested especially well, after making the day’s initial ascent of about 1500 feet to Grisdale Tarn you may opt for either of two mountain routes, versus heading straight down the valley into Patterdale. However, the mountain routes will add an additional 1500 feet (so 3,000 feet total for the day) or 1000 feet (2,500 feet total for the day) of ascent, depending on which one you pick. The 1500-foot climb to Helvellyn adds 2.5 miles to the route as well; but again, you get what you pay for. Sadly, you pay with your body. The 1,000-foot climb to St. Sunday Crag adds virtually no mileage, just time and effort. As you can see, the Lake District is full of options and our suggestion is to sample the variety. Take the mountain route one day, and if you have another option the next day, stick to the stream.

Patterdale itself is ancient, quiet and, like most of the towns along the way, void of nightlife. But what do you care? After what you’ve been through today, you’ll be lucky to last until dinner.

Day 5. The last day in the Lakes may be the most rewarding. The walk has two fairly steep but short ascents, and in general involves much less climbing than the previous two days. Of course, in exchange you have to go twice the distance. While this walk offers the spectacular upland views you’ve by now come to expect, the day’s highlight is the 4-mile trek along Haweswater Reservoir - in our estimation the prettiest lake on the entire route (see photo). If you can ward off your appetite, save lunch for one of the many perfect picnic spots overlooking Haweswater. We’d like to note that there are no villages along this 16-mile hike, and if you’re packing about one liter of water per person as we were, you may find yourself low on water just about the time you’re finishing up the walk along this lake. Unfortunately, at this point it is still several miles to Shap. But not to worry. A house located about one-third of a mile past the dam has a sign advertising "free water," and tea and snacks for a nominal charge. The strategic placement of this refreshment opportunity is no coincidence, just hospitality.

From here you will say goodbye to the Lake District National Park and say hello to stone walls, pastures and stiles. You’ll find that climbing stiles is kind of fun at first. It provides a brief moment to stop and look around you, and a feeling of progress with each one conquered. This wears off quickly. By the time you get to Shap you’ll swear you are through with stiles. But don’t kid yourself . . . the relationship is just beginning.

The last leg into Shap is pastoral, and you’ll pass the very ancient Shap Abbey, built in 1199, about 1 mile outside of town. At this point you may be too tired to make any detours, but you are allowed to visit the Abbey if you can muster the energy. Shap will be the largest town you’ve stopped in so far, but don’t get too excited. There is not really much going on here either. As usual, the highlight of the evening will be dinner and a warm bath. But you’re starting to get used to it by now. The Lakes have given you strength and stamina and you are ready to take on the Dales.

The seven-day journey through the Yorkshire Dales, from Shap to Ingleby Cross, will be covered in Part II of this series.

TMF, October 1999

Click here for A Coast to Coast Walk Across England, Part II - The Yorkshire Dales.
Click here for A Coast to Coast Walk Across England, Part III - The North York Moors.
Click here for information regarding maps, books and accommodations.